Souvla is Cyprus's most famous dish — large chunks of pork shoulder marinated in red wine, olive oil, sea salt, black pepper and Greek oregano (rigani), threaded onto long skewers and cooked slowly over glowing charcoal on a foukou grill. Unlike souvlaki, which uses small pieces cooked fast over high heat, souvla is browned first and then raised higher above the coals to cook low and slow for up to two hours, turning regularly, until the outside is crisp and golden and the inside is juicy and smoky. It is the centrepiece of Cypriot village feasts and family barbecues, served with lemon wedges, warm pitta bread and salad, and eaten straight off the skewer.
1255 calories · Protein 75.2 g · Fat 75.1 g · Saturated fat 24.2 g · Carbs 68 g · Sugar 2.4 g · Fiber 2.7 g · Sodium 2939 mg
Method
Cut 2.5 lb pork shoulder into cubes about 2.5 cm across, keeping the pieces as even as you can so they cook at the same rate.
Put the pork in a large bowl and pour over 2 tbsp red wine and 2 tbsp olive oil, tossing well so every piece is coated.
Sprinkle over 1 tbsp sea salt, 0.5 tsp freshly ground black pepper and 1 tsp ground Greek oregano, then toss again until the seasoning is evenly spread.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight, so the wine, oil and oregano work their way into the meat.
Thread about 6 pieces of pork onto each long skewer, leaving a small gap between pieces, making about 12 skewers in total.
Set the skewers over a hot charcoal grill and turn them often until the pork is browned evenly on all sides, about 15 minutes.
Raise the skewers higher above the charcoal and grill slowly for 90 minutes to 2 hours, turning regularly and basting with olive oil and lemon juice, until the outside is crisp and golden and the inside is cooked through.
Warm the pita breads over the grill, rest the meat briefly, squeeze lemon over it and serve with the warm pita, salad and tahini if you like.
Chef's tip
Do not rush souvla. Brown the skewers first for colour, then lift them higher above the coals and let the gentle heat do the work — that slow second stage is what makes the meat juicy inside and crisp outside.
Serving
Serve the souvla straight off the skewers, with lemon wedges, warm pita bread, a village salad of tomato, cucumber and onion, and tahini or tzatziki for dipping. In Cyprus it is a feast dish, eaten outdoors with the family, and each person takes 3 to 4 skewers. A glass of red wine or a cold beer goes with it.
Storage and reheating
Refrigerate leftover souvla in a closed container and eat within 2 days. Reheat gently on a grill or in a hot oven until warmed through; take care not to overcook it or it will dry out. Leftover pork is also good sliced cold into pita with salad and tahini. Do not freeze cooked souvla if you can avoid it — the texture turns dry.
Ingredient notes
Use pork shoulder, not lean loin. The fat in the shoulder bastes the meat as it cooks slowly and keeps it juicy; lean cuts dry out over two hours on the grill.
Keep the cubes big — about 2.5 cm across, or even larger, 5 to 7 cm. Small pieces cook too fast and dry out; souvla is defined by large chunks cooked slowly.
Marinate for at least 2 hours, but overnight is best. The red wine and oregano need time to flavour the meat right through.
A foukou grill, the long charcoal rotisserie used in Cyprus, is ideal, but any charcoal barbecue works. Cook over real charcoal, not gas, for the smoky flavour.
Variations
Chicken souvla: replace the pork with boneless chicken thigh, cut into large chunks, and marinate the same way; cook for 60 to 90 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and golden.
Lamb souvla: use lamb shoulder cut into large chunks and marinate with the same red wine, olive oil and oregano; lamb souvla is a classic Cypriot alternative and cooks in about the same time.
Garlic and lemon souvla: add 3 crushed garlic cloves and the juice of 1 lemon to the marinade, and baste the skewers with olive oil and lemon juice while they grill, for a brighter, sharper flavour.
Common mistakes
Cutting the meat too small. Small cubes cook like souvlaki and dry out; souvla needs big chunks, about 2.5 cm or larger, to survive the long slow cook.
Cooking over high heat the whole time. Browning first is right, but if you never raise the skewers the outside burns before the inside is cooked; lift them higher and let the gentle heat finish the job.
Skipping the marinade time. Less than 2 hours and the wine and oregano never reach the middle of the meat; overnight is best.
Forgetting to turn the skewers regularly. The side facing the coals chars quickly, so turn often for even browning and juicy meat all round.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between souvla and souvlaki?
Souvla uses large chunks of meat, about 2.5 cm or bigger, cooked slowly over charcoal for 1.5 to 2 hours, while souvlaki uses small pieces cooked fast over high heat. Souvla is browned first, then raised higher above the coals to finish slowly; souvlaki stays close to the heat the whole time.
Can I make souvla without a foukou grill?
Yes. A foukou is the traditional Cypriot charcoal rotisserie, but any charcoal barbecue works. The key is real charcoal and the ability to raise the skewers higher above the coals for the slow second stage, so use a grill with adjustable height or stack the skewers on bricks.
How long should I marinate souvla?
At least 2 hours, and ideally overnight in the refrigerator. The red wine, olive oil, salt, pepper and oregano need time to flavour the meat through; a short marinade only seasons the surface.
Can I use chicken or lamb instead of pork?
Yes, both are traditional in Cyprus. Use boneless chicken thigh cut into large chunks and cook for 60 to 90 minutes, or lamb shoulder cut into large chunks, which cooks in about the same time as pork. Keep the same marinade and the same slow charcoal method.